BRYANT FURNACE & AC REPAIR

Yes, but with limitations based on the temperature:

• Down to -15°C: Modern inverter heat pumps work efficiently.
• Below -20°C: Efficiency drops, and the system needs a backup heat source (like a gas furnace or electric strips) to maintain comfort.

A blank screen typically indicates a loss of power. Check these first:

• Breaker Box: Make sure the furnace breaker hasn’t tripped.
• Drain Safety Switch: If your drain pan is full of water, a safety switch may cut power to the thermostat to prevent flooding.

The Evolution™ Connex™ control displays this generic message when a component fails.

• Try a Reset: Cycle the power at the breaker once.
• Check Messages: Tap the alert on the screen to see the specific code (e.g., Code 33 or 41).
• Call Us: These errors usually require professional diagnosis.

Hybrid Heat® is a smart dual-fuel system that optimizes savings by switching fuel sources:

• Mild Winter Days: Uses the electric heat pump (cheaper/efficient).
• Deep Freeze Days: Automatically switches to the gas furnace (powerful heat).

Don’t panic, this is the Defrost Cycle.

• In winter, the outdoor coils can get frosty.
• The unit reverses itself to heat the outdoor coils and melt the ice.
• Steam rises, and the fan stops spinning for a few minutes. This is normal operation.

Ductless filters need more frequent cleaning than furnaces:

• Open the front panel of the indoor head.
• Slide out the mesh filters.
• Rinse them under warm water (use mild soap if greasy).
• Let them air dry completely and reinstall.
• Do this every 2 to 4 weeks.

Water dripping down the wall is usually caused by:

• Clogged Drain Line: Dust and mould block the tube that carries water outside.
• Dirty Blower Wheel: Excess dust wicks water out of the drain pan.
• Uneven Installation: The unit must be level for water to drain properly.

The blinking light is an error code. To help us diagnose it before we arrive:

• Count the flashes: (e.g., 5 flashes, pause, 5 flashes).
• Note the colour: Is it the Operation light or the Timer light?

Yes. A “Multi-Zone” system allows you to:

• Connect up to 5 indoor units to a single outdoor compressor.
• Set different temperatures for every room (zoning).
• Eliminate the need for bulky ductwork.

If the screen is on but the unit won’t beep:

• Check Batteries: Replace them first.
• Camera Test: Point the remote at your phone camera and press a button. If you see a light on your phone screen, the remote is working, and the issue is likely the receiver on the AC unit.

Replacement frequency depends on your household:

• Standard use: Every 9 to 12 months.
• Heavy use (Pets/Smoking): Every 6 months.
• Note: These filters cannot be washed. They must be replaced.

It is a three-step active defense system:

• Capture: A MERV 15 filter catches tiny particles (dust, pollen).
• Kill: An electrical charge zaps the filter, killing captured bacteria and viruses.
• Purify: Prevents trapped germs from reproducing.

• Solid Light: The unit is working normally.
• Flashing Light: The built-in timer has expired, indicating it is time to change the media cartridge.
• Remember to reset the monitor after installing the new filter.

Yes. The MERV 15 rating is high enough to capture:

• Fine smoke particulates (PM 2.5).
• Ash and soot.
• Common allergens.

Look at the powerhead (the box attached to the filter cabinet):

• Blue/Green Light: The high-voltage field is active.
• No Light: Check power connections or the door latch.
• Crackling Sound: This can happen if the filter is overloaded with large debris or high humidity, but occasional snapping is normal.

Water should only flow when the furnace is running. If it flows 24/7, check:

• Solenoid Valve: It may be stuck in the “open” position due to debris.
• Wiring: It may be wired to constant power instead of the furnace cycle.

Adjust your humidistat based on outdoor temps to prevent window ice:

• 0°C to -10°C: Set to 30-35%.
• -10°C to -20°C: Set to 25%.
• Below -20°C: Set to 15-20%.

• Turn off the humidifier control.
• Remove the front plastic cover.
• Slide out the frame holding the mesh pad (water panel).
• Pop out the old pad, insert the new one (paint mark up), and reassemble.

Common reasons for a dry humidifier include:

• Closed Valve: Check the saddle valve on the water pipe.
• Closed Damper: Make sure the “Summer/Winter” damper on the duct is open.
• Burned Solenoid: If the humidistat calls for water but the valve doesn’t click, the solenoid is dead.

• Bypass: Uses the furnace’s airflow. Good for small to medium homes. Quieter but uses more water.
• Fan-Powered: Has its own internal fan. Best for large homes or homes with heat pumps. More efficient use of water.

PROBLEM: No previous code stored.
FIX: No action needed. This indicates the history has been cleared or power was recently reset.

PROBLEM: Blower on after power-up.
FIX: The blower is running for a timed safety delay (usually 90 seconds). This happens if the furnace lost power while running. It will reset automatically.

PROBLEM: Limit Circuit Lockout.
FIX: The furnace overheated and has locked out for safety (usually 3 hours). Check for a dirty air filter, blocked return vents, or a closed damper. If the filter is clean, the limit switch may be faulty.

PROBLEM: Ignition Lockout.
FIX: The furnace failed to light after multiple attempts (usually 3 hours lockout). Check that the gas valve is open. If gas is on, the igniter or flame sensor is likely bad and needs professional service.

PROBLEM: Gas Heating Lockout.
FIX: The gas valve may be stuck open, or the flame sensor thinks there is a fire when there shouldn’t be. Turn off the gas supply immediately and call a professional.

PROBLEM: Abnormal Flame Signal.
FIX: The flame sensor is reading a flame when the gas valve should be closed. This is often a grounding issue or a stuck gas valve. Requires professional repair.

PROBLEM: Pressure Switch Did Not Open.
FIX: The pressure switch is stuck closed. This usually indicates a mechanical failure of the switch or water in the pressure tubing. Unplug the furnace and call for service.

PROBLEM: Secondary Voltage Fuse Open.
FIX: The low-voltage fuse (3-amp or 5-amp) on the control board has blown. This is caused by a short circuit in the thermostat wiring. Check your thermostat wires for cuts/touching.

PROBLEM: Pressure Switch or Draft Safeguard Switch Fault.
FIX: The furnace cannot vent exhaust properly. Check the intake and exhaust pipes outside for snow, ice, or leaves. If pipes are clear, the inducer motor or pressure switch may be failing.

PROBLEM: Limit Circuit Fault.
FIX: Restricted airflow is causing the unit to overheat (similar to Code 13 but has not yet locked out). Replace the air filter immediately. Open all registers. If it persists, the blower motor may be failing.

PROBLEM: Ignition Proving Failure.
FIX: The furnace lights but the flame goes out immediately. The flame sensor is dirty (needs cleaning with steel wool) or the gas pressure is too low.

PROBLEM: Blower Motor Fault.
FIX: The blower motor is not running or is running at the wrong speed. This indicates a bad motor or a failed capacitor. Requires professional replacement.

PROBLEM: Inducer Motor Fault.
FIX: The small motor that pushes exhaust out is failing or jammed. Check for debris in the fan housing. If clear, the motor needs replacement.

PROBLEM: Control Circuitry Lockout.
FIX: The main control board has detected an internal failure. Try resetting the breaker once. If the code returns, the control board needs to be replaced.

PROBLEM: Normal Operation (Call for Heat).
FIX: None. The furnace is functioning correctly and heating your home.

PROBLEM: Control Board Failure or Secondary Voltage Issue.
FIX: If the light is solid red and never blinks, the circuit board is likely dead. Verify 24v power from the transformer; otherwise, replace the board.

PROBLEM: System Communication Failure.
FIX: The outdoor unit cannot “talk” to the indoor unit/thermostat. Check for loose wires at the terminal block (labeled A, B, C, D).

PROBLEM: Invalid Model Plug.
FIX: The small “personality plug” on the circuit board is missing or damaged. This tells the board what model AC it is. Requires a technician to install the correct plug.

PROBLEM: High Pressure Switch Open.
FIX: The system is running at dangerous pressure levels. Turn it off immediately. Clean the outdoor coils gently with a hose. If clean, call a pro.

PROBLEM: Low Pressure Switch Open.
FIX: The system has lost pressure. This is almost always due to a refrigerant leak or severe freezing. Do not run the AC; call for leak repair.

PROBLEM: Control Fault.
FIX: The outdoor inverter board has failed. Try cycling power at the breaker for 5 minutes. If it returns, the board requires replacement.

PROBLEM: Brownout (Low Voltage).
FIX: The unit is not getting enough power (under 187 volts). Check your home’s breaker panel and the outdoor disconnect box for loose connections.

PROBLEM: No 230V at Unit.
FIX: The outdoor unit has lost high-voltage power. Check if the breaker is tripped or the outdoor disconnect fuse is blown.

PROBLEM: Outdoor Air Temp Sensor Fault.
FIX: The sensor that reads outside temperature is broken or unplugged. The unit may default to a safety mode. The sensor needs replacing.

PROBLEM: Coil Temp Sensor Fault.
FIX: The sensor clipped to the outdoor coil is broken. This affects the system’s ability to run efficiently. Requires sensor replacement.

PROBLEM: Thermal Cutout (Low/High Stage).
FIX: The compressor is overheating. This can be caused by a dirty coil or a failing condenser fan. Turn the unit off for 4 hours to let it cool down.

PROBLEM: Contactor Shorted.
FIX: The electrical switch (contactor) is welded shut, meaning the AC runs even when the thermostat is off. Shut off the breaker immediately and call for service.

PROBLEM: No 230V at Compressor.
FIX: The compressor should be running but isn’t getting power. The contactor may be stuck open or there is a loose wire inside the unit.

PROBLEM: Thermal Lockout (4 Hours).
FIX: The compressor overheated multiple times in a row. The system is locked out for 4 hours to prevent permanent damage. Do not bypass this. Clean the coils while you wait.

PROBLEM: Low Pressure Lockout.
FIX: The system tripped the low-pressure switch multiple times (Code 32). It is now locked out to save the compressor. You likely have a significant leak.